BMW Club East Anglia Section
Visit to Castellane and Verdon Gorge
4th – 11th September 2010

By Mike Davies with photos by Mike Davies and Mark Handley

As with all our foreign trips, this one was organised many months ago by Matt Butcher and Sarah McCarney with Mark Handley planning the ride-out.

Early bookings on ferries usually means cheaper fares. Hotels booked over weekends are cheaper.

This report is written on a day to day basis and as we all tend to do our own thing whilst staying in the area of the trip, it will give a fair idea of what went on.

I had arranged to ride down with Tom Rodgers and share a chalet at Domain du Verdon, Castellane, where we were all staying (one of many such sites owned and run by Les Castles Company). Tom rides a 2009 GSA and I ride a 2010 GSA with the new engine so we were well matched.

Thursday 2nd September

We started our journey to the Verdon area and met at the BP petrol station just as you enter Dover. The P&O ferry was waiting and after a good breakfast onboard we left Calais having put our watches on an hour for French time. I had planned a peage route and the next stop was at Challon-en-Champagne. I have pre-booked Etap hotels where possible as they offer reasonable comfort at good prices and booking early saves more money. These hotels are nearly always located in an industrial estate area of the town but a restaurant is usually within walking distance.

We arrived at Challons-en-Champagne but at a Premier Classe hotel as the Etap had been full when I booked. This was not as good as the Etap! After a shower we walked to the nearby restaurant.

Friday 3rd September

Out on to the peage early we rode steadily south in sunny weather, stopping for a break, fuel and lunch and after a few uneventful hours arrived in Grenoble at the Etap hotel – actually located at Voreppe, some 11kms north of Grenoble.

Saturday 4th September

We left the hotel around 8.45 and rode steadily south, again in sunny weather. Shortly after passing Grenoble we joined the Route de Napoleon, named after Napoleon in 1815. It is a delightful road with many bends and great scenery, passing through Gap (avoid this town in rush hour) and Sisteron. A few miles from Castellane we stopped for lunch at a caf� where we were joined by Mark and Lyn Handley riding their R1100RT.

After lunch a short ride brought to us to the campsite where we booked in and moved into chalet.

Our chalet was chosen as it had plenty of room, both of us having our own room and toilet facilities. These chalets are well equipped and bedding and all utensils are included. For 4 euros you can hire two towels which saves space in the luggage. We unpacked and went to the on-site shop for basic items and breakfast foods.

Sunday 5th September

Our first day started with beautiful sun so breakfast was on the veranda. We then walked into Castellane (about a mile) and were immediately attracted to the imposing sight of the Notre-Dame du Rock chapel perched high on a huge rock behind Castellane.

It was a tempting sight so we set off up a very steep path to the rear of the rock (we learnt there was an easier way which we found on the walk down!). After about three quarters of an hour and a few breather stops we arrived at the top to be greeted with magnificent views of Castellane, the Verdon River and surrounding countryside.

The inside of the chapel is ornately decorated and holds regular services. Walking down on the main path was much easier with ever changing views and many butterflies, moths and lizards as company. On arrival in Castellane we sat down at one of the many cafes in the main square for a well earned drink. Several of our group told us they had also walked up to the chapel during their stay.

Monday 6th September

Prior to leaving home I had loaded a route on to my gps for a circumnavigation of the entire Verdon Gorge and today Tom and I set off down the road on the north side which soon passes through spectacular scenery.

The road closely follows the river Verdon and has been hewn out of the limestone rocks, with the odd tunnel, overhanging rocks and precipices at every bend.

The Gorge, the largest in Europe, is reputed to be around 3000 feet deep at it’s deepest and the road climbs steadily until high on the north side of the gorge one is presented with stupendous views of the gorge and the sparkling strip of the river many feet below. Great care is required when riding as the road is only just wide enough for two vehicles and many of the bends are blind. We eventually arrived at Lac de Sainte Croix and checked out canoe hire for another day.

Crossing the Galetas Bridge to the south side of the Gorge, we proceeded to Aiguines were we had lunch in the small square. Some years ago a group of us from the East Anglia Section had stayed here in the small hotel but on this occasion it rained solidly for three days! Today was beautiful and we had an enjoyable lunch.

The road on the south side of the gorge is not so demanding but still offers excellent views. One particular place is by a restaurant where, from a specially built vantage point one has spectacular views of the gorge and where it takes a U shaped bend.

The ride continues along more gentle roads and we eventually arrived back at the campsite. Total distance for the circumnavigation was around 80 miles.

Tuesday 7th September

Today was set aside for the ride out.

Mark and Lyn Handley lead some fifteen bikes and one car (Jon and Becky Price had driven down in their car) off on bendy roads to St. Paul where we parked in a designated bikers area and had two hours to look around and have lunch.

St. Paul is a walled town set on a hill and one can walk around the walls and explore the many narrow streets.

Leaving St. Paul, Mark led us on through more winding narrow roads to a pre-arranged tea stop at Thorenc where we all sat down to tea and cakes.

Just before we left Thorenc, Mark came up to me and said he was having problems with his gps and could I lead the ride back home. I had the routes on my gps so led off. Immediately we encountered two wide and deep water gulleys running across the road – ok on a GS but more tricky on some of the tourers. The road then got progressively narrower and loose under wheel but fortunately we soon came on to a better road. More winding roads with excellent views led us past Lake Castillon just north of Castellane and we all returned to the campsite safely after an excellent ride out.

Wednesday 8th September 2010

After a leisurely breakfast Tom and I decided to sample the facilities offered at the campsite. We chose mini golf which was free (at this time of the year) and collecting our clubs, knocked our golf balls around the course which gave us both much amusement. I think in fairness to us both a draw was the best result!!

We then rode a few miles north to Lake Castillon for some photos.

On the way back we stopped off at the local supermarket and I bought a litre of fully synthetic 10- 50 oil in as I needed some before the ride home. We also filled up with petrol. The 33 litre tanks on the GS allow well over 300 miles travel and in some cases I have recorded close to 400 miles on slower roads. Back on the campsite we changed and walked into Castellane for a drink. Most evening meals we either cooked ourselves in the chalet or ate at the camp restaurant.

Thursday 9th September 2010

Today a trip to St. Tropez was agreed and with luck we might see my long time heart throb, Brigitte Bardot. Two other members joined us for this trip – Duncan and Paul The route to St. Tropez was due south about 70 milers but on joining the coast road we encountered heavy slow moving traffic. Luckily we GSA riders had left our panniers behind (3 feet across when fitted!) so we were able to entertain the car drivers with some filtering! We were lucky to find parking on the quayside at St. Tropez where we had an excellent if little pricey lunch! I had planned a ride back along the coast and this was virtually traffic free. I didn’t see Brigitte Bardot!

Friday 10th September

First thing this morning, after breakfast we set to and cleaned the chalet as we were leaving next day. Then we rode to the Citroen Museum just outside Castellane where a large range of Citroens is on show. This was of particular interest to me as I have run Citroens for some 30 years and many of the models I have owned were on show. We then rode on to Digne-les-Bains, along some of the Route Napoleon on which we had ridden down.

We lunched here and I bought my usual souvenir, a knife or in this case a bottle opener with blade. I buy one at each holiday venue and am building up a collection. I also pick up a small piece of rock from the areas I visit and have a geologist delight on a shelf at home, ranging from all over Europe and as far as New Zealand!

Saturday 11th September

Departure day! We had to arrange a chalet inspection before leaving and with this duly completed we set of north and homewards. We used the same routes back apart from a diversion off the peage before our stop at the Etap in Chalons-sur-Champagne and another detour as we approached Calais. WE also rode a couple of short off-road excursions just to test the GSAs! We stopped for lunch in Sangatte – I can recommend the Blanc Nez restaurant towards the end of the main street in Sangatte going south.

The ferry trip was as usual without incident. I bought a watch as the one I was wearing had stopped during the holiday.

A great holiday and thanks to all concerned who helped in arranging it. We all met new colleagues from other areas within the club.

The Verdon Gorge is an area I can thoroughly recommend for stupendous scenery, great roads and excellent food and drink.

Statistics:

• Attendees at Campsite (permanent and visitors) about 60 in total
• Cost of Prestige Chalet 72 Euros per night (for 2 people) included electricity and gas.
• Premier Classe Hotel 50 Euros for room (for 2 people – give these a miss).
• Etap Hotels average 42 Euros per room (for 2 people) this is weekend rate.
• Total mileage covered from Essex to Castellane and back: 2196 miles
• Petrol consumption: On Peage around 42 mpg at 90 mph and 48 mpg at 80 mph
• Oil used: 500 mls (still full on arrival home and as service was done immediately on return I estimate engine used about 350 mls for trip.
• Touring speed on Peage: around 78-80 mph after trying higher speed (less economical).
• Peage fees about 50 euros for whole trip.

On reflection we could have cut out one hotel stay each way as the distances were not great.